Tags: Bath to Oxford cycle ride, Britain by Bike, Burford, Cirencester, Clare Balding, Dick, Five Get into Trouble, Harold Briercliffe, Malmesbury, punctures
I’ve been watching and quite enjoying Clare Balding’s current BBC4 television series, Britain by Bike. She’s been following a series of rides recommended by 1940s cycling guru Harold Briercliffe and, in the words of the Beeb’s press release, is trying to re-discover Briercliffe’s ‘world of unspoiled villages, cycling touring clubs and sunny B roads’. So far his routes have taken Balding across North Devon, the Welsh Marches, the Isle of Wight, West Yorkshire and the Costwolds, and there is now just one ride left to go. While Mr Briercliffe may be inspirational (see the review of his collected guides on the excellent Cycling Books website), my own 1940s cycling gurus are, of course, the Famous Five.
Clearly Timmy runs rather than cycles, but he is nevertheless an enthusiastic participant in the variety of rides undertaken by the cousins (he even keeps up with them as they attempt to cover a ‘gentle’ fifty miles a day in Five Get into Trouble – is this even possible for a dog? Should the RSPCA be consulted?).
As some of you may recall, last year I went on my first Famous Five style cycling holiday with my friend James. It was modest in distance and James and I vowed to attempt something slightly more ambitious this year. So on Saturday we are setting off for a four day trip from Bath to Oxford (serious cyclists may laugh at my conception of ‘ambitious’ but beware, I will set Timmy on you if so). We’re only planning to cycle around twenty miles per day, giving us ample time to stop off and explore along the way. We’ll be going via Malmesbury, Cirencester and Burford and staying in a series of bed & breakfasts and coaching inns (full reports on their breakfasts and cycle-friendly credentials to follow). The Bobbin has been brought out of retirement and continuing my perverse urge to give my friends FF pseudonyms, James will henceforce be Dick (hello James, I hope you don’t mind). I won’t actually be able to keep a straight face and call him that – it is in spirit only, as James is often hungry and is good at solving mysteries, climbing down wells etc. I just hope he’s not as prone to punctures as Dick is…
Tags: CTC, Cycling Books, Cyclists' Touring Club, Five Get into Trouble, Look Mum No Hands!, Regent's Canal, Specialities Tea Room, Tim Dawson, Towpath Cafe, Towpath Cafe Dalston
“Oh dear – this hill – what a steep one we’ve come to [said Anne]. I don’t know whether it’s worse to ride up slowly and painfully, or get off and push my bike to the top.” (Five Go to Billycock Hill)
Cycling can be hard work. Good refreshments are therefore an essential component of any pleasurable cycling tour. These can take the form of a picnic, but you can’t beat a good tea shop when needing to have a brief rest and ward off ‘a touch of the bonk’ (see previous ‘Cyclists (sic) Special’ and ‘Setting Off’ posts if this phrase arouses your curiosity). The Famous Five stories are full of quaint yet efficient tea rooms/post offices/village stores that provide the Kirrins with sustenance, usually courtesy of a rotund, genial and motherly woman. The tea served in Five Get Into Trouble is simple but sounds particularly delicious because it comes at the end of a tiring day of swimming and pedaling:
‘They came to Great Giddings at about ten past five. Although it was called Great it was really very small. There was a little tea-place that said “Home-made cakes and jams,” so they went there for tea.
The woman who kept it was a plump cheerful soul, fond of children. She guessed she would make very little out of the tea she served to five healthy children – but that didn’t matter! She set to work to cut three big plates of well-buttered slices of bread, put out apricot jam, raspberry and strawberry, and selection of home-made buns that made the children’s mouths water.’
In this recent article on ‘The Lost Cafe Society’ Tim Dawson laments the demise of the cyclists’ cafe. Back in the day, the Cyclists’ Touring Club handbook had a plethora of these establishments to recommend to its hungry and thirsty members. With a few notable exceptions these have largely, and sadly, disappeared over the past 30 years. All is not lost, however, and Dawson reports on the inspiring success of the Specialities tearoom in Sisted, Essex. Specialities was set up eight years ago by Sean and Carol Jein and they now welcome more than 8,000 cyclists a year. Once the horror of weekend train engineering works subsides I am keen to try it out as part of an Essex cycling jaunt (it is currently impossible to get further into Essex than Billericay before the horror of the rail replacement service kicks in). Dawson reports that they make special energy bars for cyclists but obviously a key test is: does Specialities sell ginger beer and ices…?
Dawson’s article ends on an optimistic note. Given the current resurgence in cycling he posits that there could be new mileage (sorry) in the concept of the cyclists’ tearoom. I would say so. In the fine London borough of Hackney for instance there are already a reasonable number of cyclists’ cafes, as well as many cyclist-friendly cafes (Victoria Park Pavilion for example). The Lock 7 cycle shop near Broadway Market is a notable cyclists’ venue, although I am a little ambivalent about this one after a very drawn out service period and impromtu closing that nearly scuppered last year’s Bobbin cycling holiday. As well as the excellently-named Look Mum No Hands!, which has just opened on Old Street (perhaps not technically Hackney), there is also the jolly lovely Towpath (above right) which is, perhaps unsurprisingly, situated right on the towpath of the Regent’s Canal, between the Dalston and Whitmore Road bridges. I say ‘cafe’ but it is very much an outdoor venue with a counter/coffee machine set into a canal-side building, with a little enclave hosting a long communal table and several more tables and chairs stretched along the length of the towpath. There is also the all-important bicycle workshop next door.
Food and drink-wise the Towpath serves up good (strong) coffee, pinhead oatmeal porridge, granola, and bread, jam & marmalade. It has sturdy mis-matched vintage crockery and pretty vases of flowers, plus it’s open on Thursday-Saturday evenings for wine and tapas-type nibbles (Closed all day Monday, open from 8am Tues-Fri, from 9am on Saturdays, and from 10am on Sundays).
The Towpath is a good place to stop off en route from the east to Angel or central London, and there is always a bicycle or two propped up nearby. There is even a water bowl for thirsty dogs – excellent news for all of the Timothys out there. At breakfast time you can sit with your coffee and watch pedestrians and fellow cyclists pass by on their way to work. The canal plays host to a surprisingly varied selection of waterfowl, and when it’s sunny the light reflects onto the underside of the Whitmore bridge in a most aesthetically pleasing manner. It’s all set to the faint urban hum of nearby traffic and the gentle ‘ting ting’ of bicycle bells. In short, a brief stop off here makes an enjoyable start to the day – hurrah for the return of the cyclists’ cafe!
Tags: Five Get into Trouble, Highway Code, National Bike Week
It’s National Bike Week. So, what does that mean? Well, in my area there are lots of events going on including a cyclists’ breakfast (free coffee, croissants, porridge, juice and fruit, with an optional bike check up), organised rides, art installations and the provision of lots of information about cycling safety, security, route planning etc. At the breakfast I went to in London Fields this morning the London Cycling Campaign were promoting their efforts to make cycling in the capital more appealing – better routes, better cycle parking, cycle training events). I’m sure the FF would approve. At the beginning of Five Get into Trouble ‘ absent-minded Uncle Quentin (father of George) remembers that ‘when he was a boy and had a bicycle, the brakes would never work’:
‘”Oh Uncle Quentin – of course they’re all right,” said Dick. “We’d never dream of going out on our bikes if the brakes and things weren’t in order. The Highway Code is very strict about things like that you know – and so are we!”
Uncle Quentin looked as if he had never even heard of the Highway Code. It was quite likely he hadn’t. He lived in a world of his own, a world of theories and figures and diagrams – and he was eager to get back to it!’.